Last year Americans spent more than 40
billion dollars on anti-aging products, while nearly nine million people
underwent age-reversing plastic surgery. But what if we could repair our
skin, diminish wrinkles and even out skin color without going under the
knife? In the continuing series, “About Face: Look Younger Without
Plastic Surgery,” “Weekend Today” explores the latest technologies in
the anti-aging industry.Did you
know that you control 70 percent of your aging process? Susan West Kurz,
author of “Awakening Beauty,” says eating the wrong foods can spike the
aging process and eating the right foods can slow it down. Here's the
good and the bad:
Fruits and vegetables
Fruits and vegetables, especially those with dark colors, are loaded
with antioxidants that save your cells from premature aging. Eat 3-5
servings per day of these fruits and vegetables: prunes, raisins,
blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, plums, brussel
sprouts, kale, broccoli, spinach.
Blueberries, cranberries, strawberries,
raspberries, prunes, raisins: They are all loaded with antioxidants that
save your cells from premature aging. Blueberries, for example, have
more antioxidants — called anthocyanins — than any other food, three
times more than the second richest sources: red wine and green tea. In
one study, older people who eat strawberries had the lowest rate of all
kinds of cancer. Berries are particularly rich in antioxidant vitamin C,
an overall youth potion.
Broccoli, kale, spinach, brussel sprouts:
Broccoli and spinach are packed with free radical fighters, vitamin C,
betacarotene, querectin, indoles, glutathione and lutein. Broccoli is
one of the richest food sources of the trace metal chromium, a life
extender and protector against the ravages of out-of control insulin and
blood sugar.
In women, broccoli helps the body get rid of the harmful type of
estrogen that promotes cancer. Broccoli eaters also have less colon and
lung cancer and cardiovascular disease. It's even been linked to longer
survival in lung cancer patients.
Whole grains
Whole grains not only have antioxidants, but are also a great source for
vitamins, minerals, proteins, and fiber. Whole grains like spelt, bulgar
and quinoa can reduce cholesterol and high blood pressure and even help
prevent heart disease, cancer and diabetes.
Examples of whole grains:
brown rice
quinoa
millet
barley
bowl of cooked oatmeal
Servings per day: the USDA just recently
recommended eating at least three servings a day.
Whole grains help flush fat and cholesterol
out of your system and provide powerful antioxidants that help you stay
healthier, look younger and live longer. Whole grains are an insoluble
fiber — they pull the water out of the food and bind to other
“unhealthy” foods you are eating.
Green tea
Green tea contains the super-antioxidant EGCG, which prevents and even
reverses inflammation and the effects of oxidation — the underlying
cause of aging — skin damage, scarring, and wrinkling. Research has
shown that people in Eastern culture consume about four cups a day, and
have reduced incidence of heart disease and cancer.
Coffee vs. green tea
Coffee has organic acids that raise your blood sugar and insulin.
Insulin puts a lock on body fat. When you switch over to green tea, you
will drop your insulin levels, and body fat will fall very rapidly.
Green tea has about half as much caffeine as coffee.
Organics
A fruit, vegetable or food that is labeled “organic” means it has
undergone minimal processing, is free of synthetic chemicals, has no
genetically-modified organisms, no animal testing, is free of synthetic
fragrances, colors and dyes, and all raw materials are derived from
nature. If a food product is organic, there are no poisons to initiate
oxidation and inflammation.
Healthy fats
Healthy fats not only reduce oxidation, but inflammation as well. They
are very important to your skin's aging process.
Examples of healthy fats:
salmon
flaxseeds
olives and olive oil
nuts and seeds
safflower oil
sesame oil
Servings per day: healthy fats should make
up 30% of your dietary intake. Meaning: if you are on a 2,000 calorie a
day diet, your healthy fat intake should be between 400-600 calories.
Fat is one of the big three nutrients,
along with carbohydrate and protein. We need it as an important energy
source. It also is a carrier for the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K
as well as being important for normal body cell function.
Foods to avoid
Foods that will speed up the aging process:
saturated fats found in red meats
trans fats found in donuts, pastries,
muffins
hydrogenated oils: fast foods like Big
Macs, fries, fried chicken
Dr. Debra Wattenberg breaks down the three
different categories of anti-aging creams, and explains whether they
really work.
Faux Botox creams
Instead of having Botox injections, many women (and men) are turning to
“Botox in a bottle” or “faux-tox.” The claim is that the cream will work
just as well as the Botox injections. The makers of the various products
below insist “faux-tox” is safe because it does not use the key
ingredient of Botox injections — a diluted strain of deadly botulinium
toxin.
The makers of “faux-tox” creams say they
work by simply locking moisture beneath the skin's surface, making it
appear plumper.
Freeze 24/7
Freeze 24/7 is the latest product on the market. The manufacturers of
Freeze 24/7 do not use botulism, but instead use the active ingredient
“gaba” (gamma-amino butyric acid) — a muscle relaxant that is produced
naturally in the body. The manufacturers compare “gaba” to melatonin
(melatonin is produced as the body's natural sleep-inducing agent).
“Gaba” works to help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
on the facial area quickly, safely, and effectively with no side effects
— just results. Freeze 24/7 says 100% of the study respondents
experienced a 50-90% visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines
and wrinkles within 10 minutes of a single application.
1 oz. jar = $115
DDF Wrinkle Relax
DDF Wrinkle Relax is another anti-aging cream. It is a combination of
two non-toxic anti-aging peptides chemically combined from naturally
derived amino acids. Its main ingredient is argireline magnesium
ascorbyl (collagen builder) and hyaluronate shea butter. DDF Wrinkle
Relax claims to help prevent fine lines induced by repeated facial
movements without the loss of expression. Increases collagen and elastin
production. Helps prevent premature aging. Visible results within two
weeks.
5 oz. jar = $80
Strivectin-SD
Strivectin is the product that started the whole “better than Botox”
craze. Strivectin was originally touted for its ability to visibly
reduce the depth, length, discoloration and roughness of existing
stretch marks. It's only when women in clinical studies started putting
the cream on their face that they saw some of their facial lines
diminish. Strivectin claims to: decrease the depth of indentations in
the skin, increase stimulation of collagen synthesis, correct skin
coloration irregularities, increase the smoothness, thickness and
firmness of the skin. Strivectin SD uses a combination of agents,
elasticizers, and skin hydrators, all designed to address every issue of
stretch mark repair.
6 oz. jar = $135
Hydroderm
Hydroderm is a patented collagen infusion delivery system developed over
the last several years by scientists. The manufacturers of Hydroderm say
that by using its technology, women are now able to get collagen
molecules directly to the skin. Hydroderm claims to: decrease fine lines
and wrinkles, deliver whole collagen to the skin, and boost skin's
natural glow, tone and texture. In addition to the patented collagen
infusion delivery system, hydroderm contains the collagen-promoting
power of matrixyl 3000 peptides, which work to significantly reduce the
appearance of wrinkle depth and density, and skin promote smoothing. Its
key ingredients are “matrixyl 3000” peptides, which reduce the
appearance of wrinkles by 45%. A user study shows matrixyl 3000 fights
the appearance of wrinkles with: 45% reduction in the area occupied by
deep wrinkles, 15% reduction in the mean depth of the main wrinkle, 18%
reduction in complexity.
Hydroderm Wrinkle Reduction System = $79
Olay Regenerist
Olay Regenerist claims to regenerate skin's appearance, without
irritation, by renewing its outer layer one cell at a time. The result
is skin that looks, feels, and behaves more like new skin. This next
generation line of three products — a serum, cream, and lotion — helps
improve the skin's moisture barrier and renew its outer layer to reduce
the appearance of wrinkles, delivering optimal skin health.
1.7 oz. = $18.99
Antioxidants & topical vitamin creams
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an antioxidant nutrient that helps recycle Vitamin E. It
also promotes collagen formation. It claims to repair and protect skin
by stimulating cell renewal and increasing healthy circulation.
The facts
Topical vitamin C may reduce wrinkles, thicken skin and protect against
sun damage. It's difficult to manufacture and degrades rapidly, however,
so it must be stored in airtight, light-resistant containers. Many of
the first vitamin C products couldn't penetrate the skin deeply enough
to be effective, but newer products may be more absorbent. Side effects
may include stinging and irritation. Larger studies are needed to prove
whether topical vitamin C can reduce wrinkles.
Products
MD Skin Care Aging cream, $58
Skinmedica Vitamin C Complex, $76
Avalon Organics Vitamin C Renewal facial
cream, $19.95
Vitamin E
Vitamin E, an antioxidant nutrient, is the major antioxidant found in
human skin. Declining levels in skin are associated with wrinkles.
The claim
Neutralizes free radicals for a soft, smooth, radiant complexion
The facts
Animal studies show that topical vitamin E may reduce wrinkling. One of
the few human studies shows a slight reduction in wrinkling, skin
roughness, length of facial lines and wrinkle depth. Side effects may
include swollen, reddened and itchy skin (contact dermatitis).
Tocopherols and tocopherol acetate are the most common forms of vitamin
E found in cosmetics, but they may be poorly absorbed by skin. More
research is needed to determine if vitamin E reduces wrinkles
effectively by itself or in combination with other antioxidants.
Products
Nutra-E Pure Vitamin E skin cream, $5.99
Nutra-E Pure Vitamin E skin oil, $7.99
Jason Vitamin E cream, $12
Soy isoflavones
Protein extracts of soybean and soy milk contain several different
estrogen-like substances called isoflavones. Because they may mimic the
effects of estrogen, they're sometimes called phytoestrogens.
Phytoestrogens may produce wrinkle-reducing effects on skin that are
similar to those resulting from hormone therapy.
The claim
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
The facts
Animal studies show that soy isoflavones protect skin against sun damage
and may increase production of hyaluronic acid, a substance that
thickens skin and reduces wrinkles by binding to water molecules in
skin. A small clinical study of soy isoflavones shows that they may
lighten age spots. Although oral soy isoflavones may increase the risk
of some cancers, it's unknown if topical products do the same.
Researchers believe that soy isoflavones may help reduce wrinkles, but
caution that more human research is needed to determine their safety and
effectiveness.
Products
Aveeno Positively Radiant Anti-Wrinkle
cream, $15.99
Archipelago Botanicals Milk Soy cream, $16
Prescription topical creams (recommended by
Dr. Wattenberg)
The following two prescription creams (Retin-A and Renova) contain “tretinoin.”
Tretinoin is most commonly used to treat acne. It works partly by
keeping the skin pores clear. But now, tretinoin is also in two creams:
Retin-A and Renova.
Retin-A
Retin-A is an acne treatment that also removes wrinkles and improves
skin appearance and condition. Retin-A contains tretinoin (sometimes
called retinolic acid), which is derived from vitamin A. It can reduce
severe wrinkles within only 6 weeks and completely remove fine lines.
Retin-A acts by improving blood supply to the skin, which in turn
increases the turnover of dead skin cells. Accordingly, new more subtle
and younger looking skin appears at the surface.
Use
There are two versions of Retin-A available: the 0.05% cream, which is
designed for wrinkles, and the 0.1% cream, which is designed for acne.
If you have never used this product before, it is strongly recommend
that you start at the lowest dosage and if necessary, work your way up
slowly.
Renova
Renova is prescribed to reduce fine wrinkles, discoloration, and
roughness on facial skin (as part of a comprehensive program of skin
care and sun avoidance). While using Retin-A or Renova, keep exposure to
sunlight, including sunlamps, to a minimum. If you have a sunburn, do
not use the medication until you have fully recovered.
Tri-luma
Tri-luma cream is the only triple-action cream approved for the
short-term and intermittent long-term treatment of moderate to severe
melasma. “Melasma” is a natural darkening of the skin on your face
caused by excessive production of melanin, the pigment that causes your
skin to tan. It is the scientific name for dark spots, sunspots or
darkened patches of the face/skin. Tri-luma cream is a unique medicine
because it combines three effective ingredients into a single tube —
giving you a single, once-a-day product to put on your face at bedtime.
The latest long-term safety studies confirm that Tri-luma cream is safe
and effective when used for longer than eight weeks and repeatedly
thereafter when melasma recurs.
Avage
Avage cream is an elegant formulation that has been proven to
effectively reduce facial fine wrinkles and certain types of dark and
light spots on your face. Avage cream contains the active ingredient
tazarotene in an emollient cream formulation. Tazarotene is a retinoid,
a potent prescription medication. Although scientists do not know how
tazarotene works, they believe that it works below the skin's surface to
provide proven visible results.
Dr. Brandith Irwin, dermatologist and
author of “Your Best Face: Looking Your Best Without Plastic Surgery,”
explains the hot, new product on the market that is safer, cheaper and
some say better than Botox — Restylane:
What is Botox and how does it works?
The cosmetic form of botulinum toxin, often referred to by its product
name Botox, is a popular non-surgical injection that temporarily reduces
or eliminates frown lines, forehead creases, crows feet near the eyes
and thick bands in the neck. The toxin blocks the nerve impulses,
temporarily paralyzing the muscles that cause wrinkles, while giving the
skin a smoother, more refreshed appearance. Studies have also suggested
that Botox is effective in relieving migraine headaches, excessive
sweating and muscle spasms in the neck and eyes. Botox can cost up to
$750 and will only last about 3-4 months.
What is Restylane?
Restylane is a safe and natural cosmetic substance that is injected into
the skin and restores volume and fullness to the skin to correct facial
wrinkles and folds, such as the smile lines around your nose and mouth.
Restylane has a highly favorable safety
profile. It is composed of non-animal stabilized hyaluronic acid —
meaning hyaluronic acid is a substance that's found naturally in the
human body. It is found in the connective tissue of the body that
cushions and lubricates. Injecting hyaluronic acid lubricates the skin
and also creates volume in the face, giving it a healthy, youthful
appearance
Restylane maintains its shape using the
body's own moisture. The hyaluronic acid in Restylane is hydrophilic or
“water loving.” As hyaluronic acid gradually degrades, each molecule
binds to more water and over time, the same volume can be maintained
with less hyaluronic acid. This ability of hyaluronic acid to bind to
water is what helps provide long-lasting results.
Restylane is proven to deliver long-lasting
results, twice as long as Botox. Studies have shown that Restylane
effects generally last for about six months. The unique NASHA technology
helps maintain the cosmetic effect until the injected material is nearly
gone.
How does Restylane work?
Restylane is injected directly into the skin in tiny amounts by an
ultrafine needle, resulting in minimal discomfort. The procedure is
simple and convenient and results are practically instantaneous. To
optimize your comfort during the short procedure, your physician may
decide to numb the treatment area.
How is Restylane different from Botox?
Restylane is a natural, cosmetic filler. Botox is a drug that blocks
nerve transmission and relaxes the underlying muscles. Many patients
have been very pleased after receiving treatment with both products.
Dr. Pat Wexler, a dermatologist in New York
City, explains the new non-invasive and FDA-approved laser procedure
called the “fraxel”:
Fraxel laser treatment
The promise: Claims to zap away sunspots and fine lines by delivering
microscopic laser hits to problem areas while simultaneously preserving
healthy skin. It has all the benefits of nonablative lasers, or lasers
that don't wound the skin, including minimal pain and no scarring. But
it's more effective at evening out skin tone.
The reality: “Everyone I've seen try this
has shown improvement,” says David McDaniel, M.D. of Eastern Virginia
Medical School. Be prepared for red, swollen, peeling, and
sandpaper-like skin for a couple days or so.
The numbers: Three 60-minute treatments
spaced a few weeks apart. While some benefits are noticeable after the
first treatment, the full effects won't kick in for several months.
Results can last for a year or more. Cost: $1,500 to $2,500 per
treatment.
The bottom line: An all-in-one treatment
for blotchiness, sunspots, and fine lines.
Fraxel laser vs. traditional laser/chemical
peel
The key difference between fraxel laser treatment and more traditional
ablative methods is that fraxel does not affect all of the skin at once.
Instead of a blanket surface treatment, fraxel treats pinpointed areas
on the skin.
Fraxel laser treatment produces thousands
of tiny but deep fractions by 400 to 700 microns — just deep enough to
stimulate significant collagen regeneration.
These treated areas, known as microthermal
zones, begin to regenerate collagen and the surrounding non-affected
areas help to speed up the recovery session.
This treatment eliminates old epidermal
pigmented cells. It also penetrates deeply into the dermis to improve
imperfections such as acne scars. Just as important, though, are the
areas of skin the fraxel laser leaves untouched. The fraxel laser is so
precise that it penetrates the non-living, protective barrier of the
skin, called the stratum corneum, as if it were a window and leaves it
completely intact. For every microthermal zone the laser targets and
treats intensively, it leaves the surrounding tissue unaffected and
intact.
This “fractional” treatment allows the skin
to heal much faster than if the entire area were treated at once, using
the body's natural healing process to create new, healthy tissue to
replace skin imperfections.
The results are often compared to the
superior results of ablative laser peels (like CO2 laser resurfacing).
Patients get the results of the laser peels, but without the
uncomfortable and long healing process.
Other non-invasive over-the-counter
products:
Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology MMPI Skin
Regenerating Serum
MMPs are naturally occurring enzymes that catalyze the breakdown of
collagen in the skin. MMPI actively rejuvenates skin's surface at the
structural level, measurably reducing visible lines and imperfections.
MMPI technology boosts skins own regenerative powers, diminishes the
visible signs of aging and restores a youthful appearance by inhibiting
all 20 known MMPs.
Price: $55
Availability: Bath & Body Works stores nationwide
Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology
Exfoliating Glyco Peel System
This 3-step, 6-minute 10% glycolic acid peel safely exfoliates skin,
evens skin tone, reduces signs of fine lines, and minimizes and unclogs
pores. It employs peptides, alpha bisabolol and MMPI technology to
rejuvenate skin's surface at the structural level.
Price: $65
Availability: Bath & Body Works stores nationwide
Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology Skin
Brightening Daily Moisturizer SPF 30
The Skin Brightening Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 improves the appearance of
age spots and discoloration by brightening the skin with MMPI and
botanical brighteners such as haloxyl peptide, arbutin and vitamin C.
Thus, warding off the natural breakdown of collagen and protecting the
skin from environmental stressors and UV exposure.
Price: $39.95
Availability: Bath & Body Works stores nationwide
ROC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Serum
Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Serum is clinically proven to visibly
reduce deep wrinkles, smooth expression lines and diminish signs of
photodamage by stimulating the skin's renewal process. The formula's
patented technology combines pure ROC Retinol with magnesium, zinc, and
copper to stimulate the skin's renewal process and bring newer,
younger-looking skin to the surface.
Price: $19.99
Availability: Drugstores nationwide
Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum
Olay Regenerist helps regenerate skin's appearance with concentrated
amino-peptides to hydrate and regenerate damaged skin.
Price: $18.99
Availability: Supermarkets and drugstores nationwide
Olay Regenerist Thermal Skin Polisher
This self-heating, exfoliating formula can be used daily to regenerate
skin. It deeply warms skin's surface to relax pores and exfoliates with
micro-crystals, emollients and glycolic acid to gently polish away dry
skin cells.
Price: $13.49
Availability: Supermarkets and drugstores nationwide
Neutrogena Advanced Solutions at Home
Microdermabrasion System
The Advanced Solutions at Home Microdermabrasion System is specially
designed to provide professional level microdermabrasion results at home
for skin rejuvenation. The micro-oxide crystallized cream contains the
same aluminum-oxide crystals used by dermatologists and salon
professionals for professional level surface cellular renewal.
Price: $37.99
Availability: Drugstores nationwide
Coppertone Sport Ultra Sweatproof/Waterproof
Lotion SPF 30 and Coppertone Sport Sunblock Lotion SPF 50
These high performance UVA/UVB, ultra sweatproof sunscreens bond to the
skin on contact with an ultra dry formula that doesn't leave a greasy
residue. The formula is oil free, hypoallergenic, waterproof and PABA-free.
Key ingredients include homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate and
oxybenzone.
Price: $9.99
Availability: Drugstores nationwide
La Roche-Posay Anthelios l
Anthelios l is a maximum strength, broad spectrum UVA/UVB SPF 60
sunscreen, formulated into a cream with mexoryl XL and mexoryl SX. This
patented sunscreen is designed to protect from both UVA and UVB rays in
order to prevent sunburn. This formula, containing La Roche-Posay
thermal spring water, also has soothing and softening properties.
Price: $30
Availability: www.pharmacymix.com